Quilting cotton is beloved for its colour, structure, and ease of use. But when it comes to garment sewing, it can be misunderstood. Crisp and full of character, it behaves very differently to fabrics typically used in clothing. That doesn’t mean it’s the wrong choice — it just means it’s important to understand how, when, and why it works.
This guide is for anyone curious about sewing clothes with quilting cotton: quilters branching into dressmaking, or sewists drawn to the beauty of bold quilting prints. Below, we’ll explore the fabric’s strengths, its limits, and tips to help you get the best results.
What Is Quilting Cotton?
Quilting cotton is a medium-weight woven cotton designed for piecing and precision in quilt-making. It has minimal stretch, a crisp hand, and is often adorned with dense, vibrant prints that add character to projects. Typically sold in fat quarters or by the meter, it’s widely available from small makers and large fabric brands alike.
While crafted for quilting, its unique properties make it a versatile choice for clothing, especially in structured garments or trendy quilted pieces like coats and vests, which have surged in popularity for their cosy, statement-making appeal. Though it may feel less intuitive for dressmaking due to its firmness, quilting cotton can shine in the right garment, offering a distinct look and feel that sets handmade clothing apart.
When Quilting Cotton Works for Clothing
Quilting cotton’s structured nature is its greatest asset, lending garments clean lines, vintage charm, and a defined silhouette when used thoughtfully. Its stability and vibrant prints make it a favorite for specific clothing projects, including the increasingly popular quilted coats and vests, like those seen in patterns such as the Omilla Quilt Coat or Chiono Quilted Jacket. Here’s where quilting cotton excels:
- Fitted Bodices and Tunics: The fabric’s firmness holds shape beautifully, eliminating the need for stiff interfacing or boning.
- Panel-Based or Color-Blocked Designs: Its stability is perfect for patterns requiring precise piecing, creating sharp, tailored looks.
- A-Line or Gathered Skirts: With a weighted hem, quilting cotton balances fullness with structure for a polished silhouette.
- Quilted Outerwear: Quilted coats and vests leverage the fabric’s body and print versatility, offering warmth and bold style for cooler seasons.
- Aprons, Simple Shirts, and Summer Dresses: Ideal for casual wear where a bit of structure enhances the design.
- Beginner Projects: Its predictable handling makes it easier to cut, sew, and press compared to slippery or stretchy fabrics.
To enhance drape, consider bias-cut panels or a lined hem to encourage natural movement, especially in garments like skirts, quilted jackets, or patchwork dresses. For example, in my Patch & Bloom Dress, I used a mix of quilting cottons from Cotton + Steel’s Camont Range, blending soft floral and geometric prints to highlight the patchwork panels.1 Prewashing these fabrics, as discussed later, was crucial to soften their texture and ensure a comfortable, flowing drape.
I sourced the Camont Range fabrics from the Sew Hot webiste, selecting medium-weight quilting cottons for their vibrant prints and durability, which complemented the dress’s structured yet playful design.
When Quilting Cotton Isn’t the Best Fit
Despite its strengths, quilting cotton won’t suit every pattern. Its lack of fluid drape and moderate weight mean it struggles with certain silhouettes. Here are examples of when to avoid it:
Slip dresses or bias-cut garments: These need fabrics that mould to the body, like silk, viscose, or rayon.
Flouncy maxi dresses: Especially those with tiered layers — they can become stiff or bulky in quilting cotton.
Peasant-style tops with elasticated gathers: These are more comfortable and flattering in soft fabrics like lawn or double gauze.
Fitted sleeves with curves: Cotton may bunch or restrict movement where flexibility is needed.
It’s also worth considering the feel of the garment. While quilting cotton softens over time, it’s never quite as fluid or soft as fabrics made specifically for garments.
Here is a table to help you choose suitable fabrics for garment types.
| Fabric Type | Typical Weight (gsm) | Drape | Works Well For | Less Suitable For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Quilting Cotton | 130–160 | ⬤ Low–Moderate | ✅ Structured dresses, aprons, tunics | ❌ Flowy styles, bias-cut dresses |
| Cotton Poplin | 100–130 | ⬤ Moderate | ✅ Shirts, crisp dresses | ❌ Fluid silhouettes |
| Rayon / Viscose | 120–140 | ⬤ High | ✅ Draped skirts, slips | ❌ Structured bodices |
| Linen | 150–200 | ⬤ Moderate–High | ✅ Boxy tops, shift dresses | ❌ Close-fitting designs |
| Cotton Lawn | 70–100 | ⬤ High | ✅ Gathers, blouses | ❌ Structured tailoring |
Why Prewashing Quilting Cotton Matters
Prewashing quilting cotton is an essential step when sewing unquilted garments, and it’s more than just a precaution—it transforms the fabric into something suitable for clothing that requires a good drape. Here’s why it’s essential:
Removes Sizing for Better Drape: Quilting cotton comes with a stiff coating, called sizing, applied during manufacturing to aid cutting and printing. This makes the fabric feel rigid and look flat. Washing strips away the sizing, softening the fabric and giving it a more fluid, natural drape that’s critical for comfortable clothing.
Prevents Shrinkage Surprises: Quilting cotton can shrink up to 5% after its first wash, which could ruin a carefully sewn garment. Prewashing ensures any shrinkage happens before you cut and sew, so your finished piece stays true to size.
It improves comfort: Unwashed quilting cotton can feel stiff against the skin. After washing, it becomes softer and moves with the body, making it far more comfortable for everyday wear.
Visual Comparison: To see the difference prewashing makes, I compared unwashed and washed quilting cotton side by side. The unwashed fabric drapes in stiff, linear folds, giving a boxy, structured look. After washing with half a cup of white vinegar in the rinse cycle, the fabric takes on a softer, more curved drape that flows naturally, perfect for garments like skirts or blouses. This visual proof shows how prewashing unlocks quilting cotton’s potential for clothing.
Tips for Softening Quilting Cotton:
- Add about half a cup of white vinegar to the final rinse cycle. It relaxes the fibers, enhancing softness without dulling the fabric’s vibrant colors.
- Toss the fabric in a tumble dryer for a short 20–30-minute cycle on low heat. This boosts softness and improves drape, though it’s optional.
- If you skip the dryer, steam ironing after washing works just as well to soften the fabric and smooth out wrinkles.
- Always wash and dry the fabric using the same method you’ll use for the finished garment to avoid surprises later.
By prewashing, you’re setting yourself up for success, ensuring your quilting cotton garment looks, feels, and fits as intended. This small step makes a big difference in the quality of your handmade clothing.
What Makes a Pattern Quilting-Cotton-Friendly?
Look for designs that embrace structure, include lining or hems for added weight, and have clean construction. For example:
The Patch & Bloom Dress was created with these needs in mind:
A lined bodice makes the most of quilting cotton’s stability.
Skirt panels cut on the bias offer movement where it’s needed.
A lined hem adds weight and drape to balance the structure.
No zips or buttons – adjustable ties make it easy to wear and kinder to firm fabric.
Print mixing – panel design encourages playful fabric choices that quilters will love.
This pattern is a natural bridge between quilting and garment sewing—especially for those who want to sew from their stash.
Choose the Right Pattern – A-line shapes, gathered skirts with structure, and clean bodices work best.
Keep Hemlines Weighted – Add a facing or lining to your hems for better drape.
Use Lightweight Interfacing – When needed, keep it light to avoid bulk.
Test Print Pairings – Try print-on-print or balance a bold with a tonal solid.
Mind Seam Finishes – Overlock or zigzag seams to avoid fraying.
A Note on Homemade vs Handmade
Sometimes the difference between a garment that looks ‘homemade’ and one that feels truly handmade is all about weight and structure. A limp or bulky hem can disrupt the whole look. That’s why the Patch & Bloom Dress uses a lined hem—to add just enough gravity to quilting cotton and let it fall more naturally.
Final Thoughts
Quilting cotton is more than a piecing fabric—it’s a canvas for wearable creativity. With the right prep and pattern, it transforms into garments that feel thoughtful and personal. Whether you’re making a dress from your stash or picking new prints with intention, the results can be just as satisfying as a finished quilt.
If you’re curious to try garment sewing with quilting cotton, the Patch & Bloom Dress is a lovely place to begin. No fussy fasteners, no special techniques—just mindful piecing, slow sewing, and something beautiful to wear.
