Choosing the right fabric alongside a sewing pattern for a casual dress can be the difference between a succesful dress that you wear all the time or a time consuming dress that feels too homemade and ends up at the back of the wardrobe.
Whether you’re a beginner sewist or a seasoned maker, knowing which fabrics will give your dress that perfect swish (without the fuss) can save time, effort, and frustration. My 5 favourite dressmaking fabrics for casual styles are fabrics I’ve used myself. I’ll tell you where they shine (and where they don’t), plus what kinds of dress styles they suit best.
1. Stonewashed Linen
A textured, mid-heavyweight linen (typically 200–250gsm) that has been pre-washed for softness and reduced wrinkle visibility. It has a lovely drape with a slight weight, making it ideal for fuller skirts.
This is hands-down my favourite fabric to sew with. I used a beautiful stonewashed linen to make my Dahlia Dungaree/Pinafore Dress as well as my favourite Apron (pattern coming soon) and was blown away by how swishy and soft the dress turned out and how well it’s lasted and washed. Unlike other linens, the stonewashed texture helps mask wrinkles while still offering that satisfying linen drape.
- Best for: A-line and circle skirts, pinafore-style dresses
- Avoid for: Gathers and ruffles (can get bulky)
- Pros: Beginner-friendly, great texture, easy to sew
- Cons: Frays easily, bulky hems (use a facing)
2. Viscose (Rayon)
A smooth, lightweight woven fabric (usually around 120–140gsm) with a very fluid drape. It mimics the softness and flow of silk, making it perfect for swishy, feminine styles.
I used a blue and cream patterned viscose for my Tinctoria Wrap Dress, and the results were dreamy. The drape is second to none—perfect for gathering without bulk. It’s breathable and feels soft on the skin, but a little delicate compared to sturdier fabrics.
- Best for: Shirt dresses, gathered waist dresses, tiered styles
- Avoid for: Wide skirts without weighted hems, workwear styles
- Pros: Flowy, lightweight, easy to gather
- Cons: Slippery to sew, tears more easily than linen
Where to buy it from?
You can find this exact Viscose in Floarl Blue and White (note it’s cream not white) from Croftmill but it’s widely available if you do a reverse Google image search. Viscose fabrics are available from most dressmaking fabric suppliers.
3. Knitted Cotton Jersey
Also known as Interlock Jersey. A soft, medium-weight knit fabric with two smooth faces and natural stretch. Interlock jersey is thicker and more stable than single jersey, making it more beginner-friendly.
Not the first fabric people reach for when making dresses—but hear me out! I’ve made my Paneira Dress and Laurelia Dress using interlock jersey, and they turned out surprisingly chic and wearable. The drape is softer than you’d expect, and it adds a cozy, swishy element—especially for winter styles.
- Best for: Simple swishy dresses, casual winter wear
- Avoid for: Buttoned or zipped designs, structured shirt dresses
- Pros: Doesn’t fray, no need for zippers, comfy stretch
- Cons: Requires sewing know-how (twin needle, walking foot), prone to stretched hems
Where to buy it from?
I have purchased my knitted cotton jersey numerous times from the eBay seller Richerfabrics and I’ve had great success with this exact fabric.
4. Cotton Lawn
A finely woven, lightweight cotton (usually 70–100gsm) that’s crisp and cool to wear. Though breathable, it lacks the weight for a natural drape and is better suited to structured designs.
While I haven’t used cotton lawn for my own patterns yet, it’s a beloved staple in the sewing community. It’s ideal for shirt dresses, tea dresses, and puff-sleeve styles that rely more on shape than drape. It’s breathable and easy to sew, but can look a little airy or flimsy unless hemmed or lined thoughtfully.
One of the most coveted versions of this fabric is Liberty Cotton Lawn, known for its ultra-fine weave and signature prints. The example shown here is a Liberty Cotton dress from Honeykins Vintage—a one-of-a-kind piece I once had the joy of trying on. It’s still available!
- Best for: Vintage-inspired tea dresses, structured shirts, puff sleeves
- Avoid for: Apron or pinafore dresses
- Pros: Beginner-friendly, crisp and light
- Cons: Less drape, may need lining or heavier hems
Where to buy it from?
Cotton lawn is widely available from dressmaking fabric suppliers, but let’s not beat about the bush, if you really want to treat yourself you need to get some Tana Lawn from Liberty London.
5. Chambray
A soft woven cotton or cotton-blend fabric (typically 130–180gsm), chambray resembles denim in look but is far lighter in weight. It combines structure with subtle drape.
I know — denim like fabric for dresses might sound odd—but chambray has become a bit of a secret weapon in my sewing kit. I’ve used it for my Persica Skirt and Sarcoco Tiered Culottes, and I love its balance between structure and softness. It gathers beautifully and feels sturdy without being stiff.
- Best for: Pinafores, gathered skirts, casual tea dresses
- Avoid for: Formal or workwear dresses
- Pros: Good drape, easy to sew, gathers well
- Cons: Prewash is a must to avoid dye transfer
Where to buy it from?
I have once again used Minerva for my purchase, you can find the exact fabric HERE.
Pound fabrics in the UK do a good selection of patterned Chambray too.
Final Thoughts
The right fabric can truly transform your handmade dress—from stiff and awkward to soft and wearable. Whether you’re sewing your first wrap dress or experimenting with a comfy pinafore, understanding how different fabrics behave will make your sewing experience so much smoother.
Avoid stiff fabrics unless you’re intentionally going for a structured look. Fabrics with no drape or body can make casual styles look boxy or ill-fitting. Similarly, be cautious with polyester blends or polyester-based fabrics—yes, even those tempting floral duvet covers from the charity shop! Polyester can be sweaty to wear, often doesn’t press well, and tends to hang stiffly, all of which can interfere with how a dress flows and fits.
Getting familiar with drape and fabric weight is essential—always check the GSM (grams per square metre) if it’s available, and try to visualise how the fabric will hang. Also, don’t skip pre-washing your fabric before cutting; it can shrink, soften, or release excess dye. If you’re going to tumble dry the finished garment, it’s wise to tumble the fabric too before sewing.
Many of the fabrics listed here pair beautifully with patterns like the Dahlia Dungaree Dress, Paneira Dress, and Tinctoria Wrap Dress—you can explore more in the pattern shop if you’re looking for your next sewing project.
